Suits
Navy vs charcoal: which suit should you buy first?
By sneakersInn team · Updated
Buy navy first. A navy suit works at weddings, church, the office and evening events, it looks good in daylight, and its jacket works on its own with jeans and chinos. Buy charcoal first only if most of your formal events are funerals, interviews and serious business meetings.
| Navy | Charcoal | |
|---|---|---|
| Formality | Formal to smart casual | Formal and serious |
| Daytime events | Looks fresh | Can look heavy |
| Evening events | Looks sharp | Looks sharp |
| Funerals | Acceptable | Better |
| Interviews | Very good | Very good |
| Jacket on its own | Easy, works as a blazer | Harder, looks like a stray suit jacket |
| Shoes | Brown or black | Black best, dark brown fine |
| Skin tones | Suits all | Suits all |
Why is navy the safer first suit?
Navy is formal enough for any occasion short of black tie and relaxed enough to break apart. Brown shoes and an open collar make it a smart casual outfit; black oxfords and a tie make it formal. No other colour moves that easily.
The jacket also passes as a blazer. Over a white tee and dark jeans or with grey trousers, a navy jacket looks deliberate.
When is charcoal the better choice?
When you mostly need a suit for serious occasions. Charcoal reads as more sober than navy, so it suits funerals, job interviews in conservative industries such as banking and law, and board meetings. It also hides wear and creases well.
What about black?
Black is right for funerals and some evening events, and many men in Ghana need one. As a first and only suit, it is less versatile than navy or charcoal for daytime events. See funeral dressing in Ghana.
What shirts and ties go with each?
- Navy: white, light blue or pink shirts; ties in burgundy, green, brown or darker navy.
- Charcoal: white or light blue shirts; ties in black, silver grey, burgundy or deep blue.
What shoes go with each?
Navy takes dark brown, mid brown and black. Charcoal is sharpest with black oxfords; dark brown works for daytime. See derbies, oxfords and loafers explained.
Which colour suits dark skin best?
Both. Navy and charcoal give strong but not harsh contrast with dark skin. Our guide to suit colours for dark skin tones covers more colours.
What should my second suit be?
If you bought navy first, buy charcoal second, then the others in the 5 types of suits every man needs. If you bought charcoal first, buy navy second.
Questions
Which is better for a wedding?
Navy, especially for daytime weddings. If the couple has announced colours, follow them.
Which hides creases and wear better?
Charcoal, slightly, because of its mid-tone. Both hide wear better than black, which shows dust and shine.
What fabric should either suit be?
Lightweight wool for Accra, ideally tropical or fresco weave. See suit fabrics explained.