Shirts, trousers and basics
Henley shirts: the T-shirt with a little more
By sneakersInn team · Updated
A henley is a collarless shirt with a short placket of two to five buttons at the neck. It sits between a T-shirt and a polo: a little more interesting than a plain tee, more relaxed than a collared shirt. Wear it alone with jeans or chinos, or under an overshirt, denim jacket or cardigan.
| Henley | T-shirt | Polo | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Collar | None | None | Yes |
| Buttons | Short placket | None | Short placket |
| Formality | Casual | Most casual | Casual to smart casual |
| Best under | Overshirts, jackets, cardigans | Anything | Blazers, light suits |
How should a henley fit?
Close at the shoulders and chest, sleeves hugging the arm, hem around the middle of the fly. Like a good tee. See plain T-shirts: why quality basics matter.
How many buttons should be open?
One or two. All buttons done up looks stiff; all open looks careless.
Short or long sleeves?
Short sleeves for Accra days; long-sleeve henleys in fine cotton or merino for air-conditioned evenings and travel, with sleeves pushed up.
What do I wear with a henley?
- White henley, dark jeans, white sneakers.
- Navy henley under an olive overshirt, stone chinos.
- Grey henley, black jeans, denim jacket.
- Olive henley, cream chinos, suede sneakers.
See overshirts and the 5 jackets every man should have.
Which fabrics?
Cotton jersey or slub cotton (slightly textured) for everyday; waffle-knit cotton for texture; linen blends for heat.
Where did the henley come from?
The style takes its name from Henley-on-Thames in England, where rowers wore collarless buttoned shirts. It became a workwear and underwear staple before turning into the casual shirt it is today.
Which colours should I buy?
White, grey, navy and olive cover most outfits. A cream or oatmeal henley looks warm and relaxed with earth tones. See colour matching for men.
How do I make a henley look smarter?
Choose a fine-knit or long-sleeve version in a dark colour, keep it fitted, and wear it with tailored trousers, a blazer and loafers. Avoid faded, stretched henleys for anything beyond the weekend.
How do I wash a henley?
Inside out at 30°C, buttons done up so the placket keeps its shape, and dry in the shade. Waffle knits should dry flat.
Questions
Can I wear a henley to work?
In casual offices, under an overshirt or blazer. Not in business casual offices.
Is a henley good under a blazer?
In a relaxed, smart casual way, yes; a fine knit or knitted polo looks sharper. See the polo knit.