Shirts, trousers and basics
Plain T-shirts: why quality basics matter
By sneakersInn team · Updated
Quality plain T-shirts matter because they're the base of most casual outfits, and a tee that keeps its shape, colour and neckline makes everything worn over it look better. A good tee is made from medium-weight cotton, has a ribbed collar that lies flat, fits close at the shoulders and chest, and survives dozens of washes.
| Check | Good | Poor |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | 180 to 220 gsm, opaque | Thin, see-through |
| Cotton | Long-staple, combed or ring-spun | Rough, short fibres that pill |
| Collar | Ribbed, sits flat, springs back | Thin, waves after washing |
| Seams | Straight, side seams don't twist | Seams twist round to the front |
| Fit | Shoulder seam on shoulder, hem at mid-fly | Too long, boxy at the waist |
What does gsm mean?
Grams per square metre, a measure of fabric weight. Lightweight tees (under 160 gsm) are cool but thin and can cling. Mid-weight (around 180 to 220 gsm) holds its shape and looks smart. Heavyweight (over 240 gsm) is structured and boxy, popular in streetwear but warm in Accra.
Why does the cotton matter?
Longer cotton fibres make smoother, stronger yarn that pills less. Labels like "combed cotton", "ring-spun" or "long-staple" usually indicate better quality. Some tees add a little elastane for stretch; it helps the collar recover.
Which neckline?
Crewnecks are the most versatile; they work alone and under shirts and knits. V-necks suit wearing under a shirt when you don't want the tee to show.
How should a tee fit?
Shoulder seam on your shoulder, sleeves ending mid-bicep and hugging the arm slightly, body close without clinging, and the hem around the middle of your trouser fly. Relaxed and boxy fits are fashionable, but they still need the right shoulder width.
Which colours?
White, black, grey and navy cover everything. Add olive, cream and brown for variety. See colour matching for men.
How do I make tees last?
Wash inside out at 30°C with similar colours, dry in the shade, and don't tumble dry. Heat shrinks cotton and fades colour.
Why spend more on basics?
Because you wear them more than anything else. A tee worn weekly for two years costs less per wear than three cheap ones that lose shape in a month. See quality vs quantity.
Questions
How many plain tees do I need?
Six to nine: two or three each in white, black and grey.
Can a tee be smart?
Under a blazer or a relaxed suit, a fitted plain tee looks sharp. See how to wear a suit with sneakers.
Where do tees fit in a wardrobe?
They're one of the 5 clothing basics every man should buy before anything else.