Essentials
5 watch styles every man should know
By sneakersInn team · Updated
The five watch styles every man should know are the dress watch, the dive watch, the field watch, the chronograph and the digital watch. Each was built for a job, and that job still decides which outfits it suits: dress watches for suits, dive and field watches for almost everything, chronographs for smart casual and digital watches for sport.
| Style | How to spot it | Built for | Wear it with |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. Dress watch | Thin case, simple dial, leather strap | Formal wear | Suits, black tie, dress shirts |
| 2. Dive watch | Rotating bezel, bold markers, water resistance | Diving | Almost anything, from tees to suits |
| 3. Field watch | Clear numbers, plain dial, canvas or leather strap | Soldiers in the field | Casual and smart casual outfits |
| 4. Chronograph | Stopwatch sub-dials and pushers on the side | Timing races and flights | Smart casual, business casual |
| 5. Digital watch | Numbers on a screen | Sport and everyday use | Gym, casual outfits |
1. What makes a dress watch?
A dress watch is thin enough to slide under a shirt cuff, has a plain dial with few or no numbers, and usually sits on a black or brown leather strap. It is the right watch with a suit at weddings, funerals and formal events because it doesn't draw attention. Case sizes of about 36 to 40 mm look right on most wrists.
2. Why is the dive watch so popular?
Because it goes with nearly everything. Dive watches have a rotating bezel (the ring around the dial) that divers used to time how long they had been underwater, bold markers that are easy to read, and enough water resistance to swim with. On a metal bracelet, a dive watch works with a tee on Saturday and a suit on Monday. A water resistance rating of 200 m is the dive watch standard; for swimming, at least 100 m is a safer choice than 30 m, which only means splash resistance.
3. What is a field watch?
A simple, tough watch with clear Arabic numerals, first made for soldiers. It is usually smaller and plainer than a dive watch and sits on a canvas, nylon or leather strap. It suits casual and smart casual outfits: chinos, overshirts, jeans, knitwear.
4. When do I wear a chronograph?
A chronograph has a stopwatch built in, with small sub-dials on the face and two pushers beside the crown. It looks busy and sporty, so it suits smart casual and business casual outfits better than formal ones. With a suit, a chronograph is fine at the office, less so at a black tie event.
5. Is a digital watch worth owning?
Yes, as a second watch for sport and the gym. A simple digital watch is light, accurate, cheap to run and tough. Smartwatches belong in this group too. Keep them for casual and active days rather than events.
Which watch should I buy first?
A dive watch or a simple watch on a metal bracelet, because it covers the most occasions. If your life is mostly suits and formal events, a dress watch instead. Add the other styles only as your wardrobe and budget grow, and spend on fewer, better pieces, as in quality vs quantity.
How should a watch fit?
The case should sit within your wrist, with the lugs (the arms that hold the strap) not hanging over the edges. The strap should let one finger slide underneath. A watch that slides down to your hand is too loose; one that leaves a mark is too tight.
Strap or bracelet?
Metal bracelets are the most versatile and handle sweat and water better. Leather straps are dressier but wear out faster in Accra's heat and humidity; take them off for the gym and let them dry. Rubber and nylon straps are best for sport and the beach.
Questions
Should my watch match my belt?
Roughly. A brown leather strap with a brown belt and a steel watch with a steel buckle look considered. See the 5 accessories that finish every man's outfit.
Can I wear a big watch with a suit?
A large sports watch can catch on the shirt cuff and looks out of place at formal events. Keep a slimmer watch for those, and see the 5 dress codes every man should understand.
Which wrist should I wear a watch on?
Usually the wrist you don't write with, so it doesn't get knocked. Either is fine.