Suits
How a suit should fit: shoulders, sleeves, trousers
By sneakersInn team · Updated
A suit fits when the shoulder seam ends where your shoulder ends, the buttoned jacket lies flat without pulling, the jacket covers your seat, about 1 cm of shirt cuff shows below the sleeve and the trousers touch the top of your shoes with little or no fold. Get the shoulders right in the shop; a tailor can fix almost everything else.
| Point | Good fit | Can a tailor fix it? |
|---|---|---|
| Shoulders | Seam at the edge of your shoulder, no dent or overhang | Rarely, and expensively |
| Collar | Jacket collar rests on your shirt collar, no gap | Sometimes |
| Chest | Lapels lie flat when buttoned | Only a little |
| Button stance | No X-shaped pulls at the button | Only a little |
| Waist | Gentle shape, room for a fist | Yes |
| Jacket length | Covers the seat | Very limited |
| Sleeves | About 1 cm of shirt cuff shows | Yes |
| Trouser waist | Stays up without a belt | Yes, within a few centimetres |
| Seat and thigh | No sagging or pulling | Yes |
| Trouser length | Touches the shoe with a small break or none | Yes |
Why are shoulders the most important?
Because they are the hardest and most expensive part to change. The shoulder seam should end at the edge of your shoulder bone. If it hangs past, the jacket is too big; if there is a dent in the sleeve top, it's too small. Choose the jacket size by the shoulders, then alter everything else.
How do I check the chest and button?
Button the jacket and stand naturally. The lapels should lie flat against your chest. If the fabric pulls into an X around the button, the jacket is too tight. If you can fit more than a fist between your shirt and the buttoned jacket, it's too loose.
How long should the jacket be?
Long enough to cover your seat. A shorter cut can look modern on slim men, but a jacket that ends above the seat makes legs look longer and the body shorter. A jacket that reaches the middle of your thighs looks dated.
How long should the sleeves be?
The jacket sleeve should end around where your wrist meets your hand, showing about 1 cm of shirt cuff. Sleeves are the easiest alteration; most tailors shorten them from the cuff.
How should suit trousers fit?
The waist sits at or just below your navel without needing a belt to hold it up. The seat is smooth. The leg tapers slightly to the ankle. The length touches the top of your shoe with a small fold (a "slight break") or none at all for a modern look. See how trousers should fit for the full trouser checklist.
What can a tailor fix?
Common alterations, roughly from easiest to hardest: trouser length, sleeve length, trouser waist, jacket waist, trouser taper, collar gap. Shoulders and jacket length are hard or impossible. Our guide on how to work with a tailor in Accra explains what to ask for.
How should I try on a suit?
- Wear the shirt and shoes you will wear with the suit.
- Empty your pockets.
- Button the jacket and stand straight, then raise your arms and sit down.
- Look in a three-way mirror or ask someone to photograph you from the side and back.
Questions
Should a suit feel tight?
No. It should feel close but let you raise your arms, sit and reach without strain.
Does fit change for heat?
Slightly. In Accra, a touch more room through the body lets air move. A lighter fabric helps more; see suit fabrics explained.
Why does fit matter more than price?
A well-fitted affordable suit looks better than an expensive suit that doesn't fit. See why fit matters more than price.